Gardening Tips

Written by Lynne Merrill 

If there were a competition among shrubs for the favorite, there’s one that would be deemed No. 1. It’s the hydrangea. When it comes to variety, color, performance, adaptability, size, and utilitarian considerations, the hydrangea has no competition. And that’s not to mention its endurance quality.

Let’s take variety as one of the hydrangea’s attributes. Using more common references, there are the old-fashioned Annabelles, the oakleaf, the pom-pom, the PeeGee, the black-stemmed, the everblooming, the climbing, as well as the popular lacecaps. There is even a dwarf hydrangea. So, whatever your choice, there is a variety of this shrub for everyone!

When it comes to color, the hydrangea also offers great variety. Colors to choose from include snow white, cameo white, green, pink, blue, rose, and even more recently, the “reds.” Moreover, depending on the pH of the soil where you plant it, you may be able to change the color of your hydrangea. For mophead hydrangeas, if the soil is alkaline (high pH), the blooms will be pink, and if it’s acidic (low pH), they will be blue. Add lime to make less acid for pink flowers. Keep in mind, though, that some varieties will not change color. The Invincibelle Spirit hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), for example, will always have pink blossoms, no matter the soil.

Performance is another consideration when choosing a shrub, and hydrangea are at the top of the list in that category as well.  Any of the Hydrangea paniculata cultivars have a long-blooming show that starts with creamy white and ends with various shades of dramatic pink.  This variety will bloom profusely and hold its blooms from the middle of summer until late fall.  Other varieties begin blooming in the spring.  The variety H. macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’ blooms continuously, as its name implies.

As the name indicates — think of the root word “hydra” — hydrangeas love water and will enjoy as much moisture as any plant can tolerate, as long as the soil is not soggy. However, the hydrangea also does very well in draught conditions. Because of its adaptability to climate changes, it is a top performer in zones three through nine — quite a spread!  Its condition requirements range from full sun to partial shade, and it prefers moist, well-drained soil.  Some hydrangeas additionally have a cold-weather toughness that other shrubs may not have. 

Most varieties grow from three to five feet tall and wide, while some are even larger or smaller. That means that the hydrangea can fulfill lots of possibilities in your garden. It can stand alone in a container or in the ground as a focal point, or it can be a showoff with lots of company from other shrubs, perennials, annuals, or bulbs.  The climbing hydrangea can even attach itself and grow up against a tree or wall for a beautiful backdrop.

It’s understandable that its size lends itself to many adaptations. The size of the plant is one feature and the size of the blooms is another. Flower heads on the ‘Annabelle’ smooth hydrangea are about one foot in diameter. The trouble with this variety is the weight of the flower heads — they begin to droop. To solve this, new varieties have been produced with stronger stems. The new variety ‘Invincibelle’ is a cross between the ‘Annabelle’ and an arborescens variety.  Another cross with the ‘Annabelle’ produced a variety with an even bigger bloom called ‘Incrediball.’ Some smaller heads can be found on ‘Endless Summer’ and other dwarf varieties. H. paniculata is 12 to 20 feet tall and wide — not so good in a garden. This one has magnificent  six- to 15-inch white blooms  that cover arching limbs. They change from greenish white to pinkish red. Two worthy types are ‘Limelight’ and ‘Little Lamb.’ Wavy, white florets (the tiny parts of the whole flower head) can be up to four inches across on the giant star-shaped flowers called H. paniculata Great Star (‘Le Vasterival’). It reaches six to seven feet tall and seven to eight feet wide. This hydrangea flowers from mid-summer until the first hard frost.

Considering its adaptability and size, hydrangeas can be used in many and varied ways.  Some practical uses that are innovative as well as creative involve lining a long driveway on either side with H. paniculata ‘Limelights,’ for example, or creating a popular “outdoor room” defined by a grouping of H. macrophylla in a crescent shape for privacy. Another option is to plant climbing hydrangea (H. petiolaris) on either side of an arbor to frame that structure.  Finally, the H. lacecap ‘Bluebird’ has the ability to command attention even in a simple container by the back door. 

A simple pruning guide is as follows:

• H. Macrophylla – Late winter/early spring
• H. Arborescens – In early March, entire plant to six to 12 inches
• H. Paniculata – In early March, large blooms; No pruning, small blooms
• H. Quercifolia – If needed, after blooming

One more advantage of the hydrangea is its longevity. If you cannot do without them in the winter, you can dry them and bring them indoors. If you cut mopheads after July 4, strip the leaves and place in a dark, dry room.  For later-forming blossoms, wait until bracts feel papery on the tips. You can also put the stem in a container with about one inch of water and let the water evaporate.

To research more information about the hydrangea shrub, just Google it. Information abounds, and it’s easy to find. Everyone loves hydrangea, and why not?

********

Lynne Merrill is a National Garden Club judge and past president of the Rhode Island Federation of Garden Clubs, Inc. She lives in Middletown, R.I.

If there were a competition among shrubs for the favorite, there’s one that would be deemed No. 1. It’s the hydrangea. When it comes to variety, color, performance, adaptability, size, and utilitarian considerations, the hydrangea has no competition. And that’s not to mention its endurance quality.

Let’s take variety as one of the hydrangea’s attributes. Using more common references, there are the old-fashioned Annabelles, the oakleaf, the pom-pom, the PeeGee, the black-stemmed, the everblooming, the climbing, as well as the popular lacecaps. There is even a dwarf hydrangea. So, whatever your choice, there is a variety of this shrub for everyone!

When it comes to color, the hydrangea also offers great variety. Colors to choose from include snow white, cameo white, green, pink, blue, rose, and even more recently, the “reds.” Moreover, depending on the pH of the soil where you plant it, you may be able to change the color of your hydrangea. For mophead hydrangeas, if the soil is alkaline (high pH), the blooms will be pink, and if it’s acidic (low pH), they will be blue. Add lime to make less acid for pink flowers. Keep in mind, though, that some varieties will not change color. The Invincibelle Spirit hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), for example, will always have pink blossoms, no matter the soil.

Performance is another consideration when choosing a shrub, and hydrangea are at the top of the list in that category as well.  Any of the Hydrangea paniculata cultivars have a long-blooming show that starts with creamy white and ends with various shades of dramatic pink.  This variety will bloom profusely and hold its blooms from the middle of summer until late fall.  Other varieties begin blooming in the spring.  The variety H. macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’ blooms continuously, as its name implies.

As the name indicates — think of the root word “hydra” — hydrangeas love water and will enjoy as much moisture as any plant can tolerate, as long as the soil is not soggy. However, the hydrangea also does very well in draught conditions. Because of its adaptability to climate changes, it is a top performer in zones three through nine — quite a spread!  Its condition requirements range from full sun to partial shade, and it prefers moist, well-drained soil.  Some hydrangeas additionally have a cold-weather toughness that other shrubs may not have. 

Most varieties grow from three to five feet tall and wide, while some are even larger or smaller. That means that the hydrangea can fulfill lots of possibilities in your garden. It can stand alone in a container or in the ground as a focal point, or it can be a showoff with lots of company from other shrubs, perennials, annuals, or bulbs.  The climbing hydrangea can even attach itself and grow up against a tree or wall for a beautiful backdrop.

It’s understandable that its size lends itself to many adaptations. The size of the plant is one feature and the size of the blooms is another. Flower heads on the ‘Annabelle’ smooth hydrangea are about one foot in diameter. The trouble with this variety is the weight of the flower heads — they begin to droop. To solve this, new varieties have been produced with stronger stems. The new variety ‘Invincibelle’ is a cross between the ‘Annabelle’ and an arborescens variety.  Another cross with the ‘Annabelle’ produced a variety with an even bigger bloom called ‘Incrediball.’ Some smaller heads can be found on ‘Endless Summer’ and other dwarf varieties. H. paniculata is 12 to 20 feet tall and wide — not so good in a garden. This one has magnificent  six- to 15-inch white blooms  that cover arching limbs. They change from greenish white to pinkish red. Two worthy types are ‘Limelight’ and ‘Little Lamb.’ Wavy, white florets (the tiny parts of the whole flower head) can be up to four inches across on the giant star-shaped flowers called H. paniculata Great Star (‘Le Vasterival’). It reaches six to seven feet tall and seven to eight feet wide. This hydrangea flowers from mid-summer until the first hard frost.

Considering its adaptability and size, hydrangeas can be used in many and varied ways.  Some practical uses that are innovative as well as creative involve lining a long driveway on either side with H. paniculata ‘Limelights,’ for example, or creating a popular “outdoor room” defined by a grouping of H. macrophylla in a crescent shape for privacy. Another option is to plant climbing hydrangea (H. petiolaris) on either side of an arbor to frame that structure.  Finally, the H. lacecap ‘Bluebird’ has the ability to command attention even in a simple container by the back door. 

A simple pruning guide is as follows:

• H. Macrophylla – Late winter/early spring
• H. Arborescens – In early March, entire plant to six to 12 inches
• H. Paniculata – In early March, large blooms; No pruning, small blooms
• H. Quercifolia – If needed, after blooming

One more advantage of the hydrangea is its longevity. If you cannot do without them in the winter, you can dry them and bring them indoors. If you cut mopheads after July 4, strip the leaves and place in a dark, dry room.  For later-forming blossoms, wait until bracts feel papery on the tips. You can also put the stem in a container with about one inch of water and let the water evaporate.

To research more information about the hydrangea shrub, just Google it. Information abounds, and it’s easy to find. Everyone loves hydrangea, and why not?

********

Lynne Merrill is a National Garden Club judge and past president of the Rhode Island Federation of Garden Clubs, Inc. She lives in Middletown, R.I.

I know! I know! I’ve heard of people who do, and Candace Morgenstern, ex-president of the RI Federation of Garden Clubs, is just such a person but judging by the ongoing general lamenting I have to say she is in the minority. Her two dogs have the run of the garden with a few precious areas off limits. That said I recall one email from her: “I’ve made a great floral display by the front door with ornamental cabbage, gourds and mums – it lasted two hours – Begley just ate it!!” 

 We dog-owning gardeners are gluttons for punishment – that’s not news. So, to counteract the effects of the punishment I’ve honed my “zen” approach to gardening – I try to enjoy both being outside and being with my pup, Toby. I get done what I get done – and it’s usually less than I planned. 

 Since training your garden isn’t really an option the tough truth is that you have to train your dog. And yourself!  

 To create the garden of your dreams, with your adoring pooch at your side, is a challenge. But, if you’re up for the challenge here are a few small strategies to help you balance the love of your four-legged soul-mate with the love of your garden.

 When I use the word “training” I’m not talking advanced training where Molly brings your tools to you, or carries them for you as she follows you from bed to bed. I am referring to the lower realms of training – sit, stay, down, off. Taking the time to teach these simple commands will help enormously. If you notice her about to flatten the young beans “off” should work. Or “stay” if he’s heading towards the freshly-strewn organic fertilizer with that “love to roll in the stinky stuff” look in his eyes. “Mmm! Mmm! All over me – then the house!” 

 Dogs are pack animals by nature and you are his pack-of-one. Duke wants to be close. And any freshly weeded space is assumed to have been cleared just for him. It’s cool and soft and was obviously created to fit that 80lb frame – perfect for that much-needed extra snooze, always with half an eye on you. 

 I had an electric fence installed when Toby was a puppy. It’s been a fabulous success and has given him tremendous freedom. But I debated long and hard about having the fence put around the flower beds so that he couldn’t get into them. I’m glad I didn’t because I can’t stand to see him pine. He just wants to be with me, close by – that’s how dogs are. Even when I step outside the electric fence field he looks miserable because he cannot get to me – that limpid, sad, unwavering gaze! I would rather have him beside me as I weed, flattening the daylilies, than pining for me beyond reach. The daylilies will recover – plus I love getting nuzzled or reaching over and running my hands across that soft warm fur.  

 Keep in mind as you work that Maggie will mimic whatever you do. If you dig, she’ll dig. If you toss a handful onto the compost, she’ll toss a handful onto the compost. It just may be your best gloves and not garden debris. Train her to use a specific area in which to dig that is hers and hers alone. Once you’ve given it to her don’t take it back for your peonies. Just as she knows her bed inside the house is her own private space, so her garden area must be her own.  

 You can use the same technique for her “toilette” – something I read about and never got around to doing. Now I have to patrol the lawn at very regular intervals to clean up after Toby. My fault not his! You see, there’s a famous, and somewhat debatable quote, that goes something like: “There’s no such thing as a bad dog, just bad owners.” This admonition will ring in your ears as you careen across the lawn in hot pursuit of Rosie who has your best pruners clenched in her teeth. 

You don’t have to limit yourself to planting only mint! Believe it or not some plants can stand to be chewed or trampled – really! Replace brittle plants like bearded iris with flexible plants that bend rather than break – like Siberian iris. Ornamental grasses, or ground covers like lamium, or the indestructible lamb’s ears and pet friendly nepeta. Just bear in mind that Spencer cannot distinguish between a Siberian iris (somehwat bendy) and a bearded iris (not so bendy). There may well be areas in your garden that you’re just going to have to fence off – but why not put up attractive fencing that looks as if you really did intend for it to be part of your landscaping rather than the Berlin Wall.

Now, a most important suggestion – this is the time to go organic although just because a product is organic does not necessarily mean it is okay for your pet to ingest it. But using non-toxic substances and plants in the garden is a must if you have animals! There are plenty of plants that are poisonous for your pets such as morning glory. Visit the site of the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) for a list of toxic plants (www.aspca.org)

My ultimate strategy is to make Toby a higher priority than my garden. I try and balance my need for perfection with my need for my loving and adorable companion.

I may never have a perfect lawn but I’ll always have a perfect friend.

   

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Written by Barbara Gee   

In the deep drear of winter, just when you think you’ll never see another bloom again, you need not despair. You can continue to delight in new blooms by growing bulbs indoors. The two most common are the flamboyant Amaryllis and the delicate Narcissus known as “Paperwhites”. All you really have to do is put them in a container with stones, pebbles or soil, and water. Voilla! – flowers in no time.

 The process is reminiscent of Beauty and the Beast, except the other way around. You plant the bulbs – ugly brown “onions” – and wait! You water periodically, stare at them occasionally, and wonder if anything’s going to happen. Then you wake up one morning and notice a tip of green white at the top of the bulb. After that there’s no stopping them! Nothing is quite so spectacular as seeing your winter bulbs bloom. It’s one of those moments when you know you’ll never stop gardening – driven on by the desire to see more of these miracles.

Amaryllis and Paperwhites are the very easiest of things to coax into bloom. There really is nothing to it. Pick your container, pick your growing medium, keep the water constant and place in the sun. If you’ve chosen a transparent container you get two pleasures for the price of one because you can also see the roots grow.

If you want instant blooms, or maybe you need a quick gift, you can purchase bulbs already planted by the garden center.

CHOOSING THE FLOWERS
The choice really comes down to what you like: Amaryllis – bold and buxom or Paperwhites – sweet and petite. But why settle for just one when you can have both. There are more choices of Amaryllis but there are also different Paperwhites to choose from although many garden centers don’t carry more than one or two. Just be sure to select healthy bulbs – they should not be too dry or wet. If dry they may be lifeless. If wet they could be rotting. Examine each bulb. Some will already have shoots some may not – this is not an indication of their health but rather how far along they are in growth.

Amaryllis
Most Amaryllis are in the red, orange, white, pink or apricot range; some are multi-colored or striped and all have wonderful names like: Naughty Lady, Clown, Ludwig Dazzler…  

— Large Amaryllis grow to about 22-24” in height and produce 2-3 stems with 4-6 flowers on each stem.

— Double Amaryllis are the same height as the Large but they produce double flowers so 4-6 flowers actually looks like 8-12 flowers.

— Dwarf Amaryllis reach about 12-16” in height and can produce up to 18 flowers from one bulb, although the flowers are smaller.

Paperwhite Narcissus
Paperwhite Narcissus are usually white but you can also find yellow ones which isn’t surprising since the Narcissus family is the family of daffodils and jonquils.

The differences, apart from color, is in the height range: 12” to 16” and the number of flower stems per bulb: 1-3. All have pretty star-shaped or trumpet-shaped white flowers with a sweet fragrance.  

If you are not able to plant the bulbs immediately after bringing them home, or if they are not showing any shoots, put them somewhere cool and dark (40-50°F) until they have sprouted – maybe a week at most. When you want to plant them soak the root area for a couple of hours to soften up the roots.

PLANTING
The container. Choose any kind of container – shallow glass or ceramic bowl, tall clear glass flower vase, a wine glass, terracotta pot, tin can – you name it you can use it which is part of the fun. The potting medium is the same for both – either an attractive gravel, pretty stones or pebbles used alone, or a good potting soil moistened – not both together. If you use soil it should be moist not soggy then plant the bulbs as you would any other potted plant.

Planting. Plant the bulbs to about two-thirds their depth in either growing medium leaving the top third exposed. Be careful how many Amaryllis you put in one container only because of weight considerations – they can be heavy when full grown. But if your pot is big and heavy enough then put in as many as will fit – they don’t mind being crowded. The same is true for Paperwhites. You can put one on its own, or grouped. If potted in soil a little spaghnum moss over the top hides the soil and gives the container an attractive finished look.

Adding water. If in gravel, stones or pebbles add water to half the bulbs depth – do not submerge them. If planting in soil just keep it moist. Then simply put the container in the sun – a sunny windowsill works very well. They like a temperature of 60-70°F

CARE
There is no care involved. Just keep the containers watered and in the sun. . Resist the temptation to overwater. Keep the bulbs moist not wet or they will rot. You can snip off dead blossoms and if you’re lucky maybe fresh blooms will come.

AFTER-CARE
Amaryllis

When the plant has stopped flowering cut the flower off and when the stem gets soft cut it back to the bulb.  Water it and fertilize through the summer and it will start to grow again in the fall. You won’t get a bloom at this time so when the leaves turn yellow cut the plant back to the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil. Clean the dirt off handling the roots gently. Place in a cool, dark place (40-50°F) for not less than 6 weeks. Then go through the same process as above to force blooms.

Paperwhite Narcissus

When the flowers start to shrivel and become papery cut them off. Wait until the stems start to become yellow and soft and cut them back to the base. Do not cut the leaves off. Continue to keep the container watered and in the sun. You can then plant your Paperwhites outside. You can cut the leaves off at this point. It may take 2-3 years before you see blooms, but you will.

A Choice Selection of Indoor Winter Bulbs

Amaryllis:
Large Amaryllis Minerva – orangey red with white center

Appleblossom – blush pink with white

Clown – broad red stripes on white

Double Amaryllis Ragtime – bright orange red

Lady Jane – salmon rose with white

Rainbow – white with strong pink markings

Dwarf Amaryllis Misty – mauve tipped with white

Girafe – red markings on white

Green Goddess – white with green center

Paperwhite Narcissus:
Ziva strong fragrance, 15”-16” height, 1-2 stems per bulb

Ariel strong fragrance, 14”-15” height, 2-3 stems per bulb

Inball lighter fragrance, 12”-13” height, 2 stems per bulb

  

In the deep drear of winter, just when you think you’ll never see another bloom again, you need not despair. You can continue to delight in new blooms by growing bulbs indoors. The two most common are the flamboyant Amaryllis and the delicate Narcissus known as “Paperwhites”. All you really have to do is put them in a container with stones, pebbles or soil, and water. Voilla! – flowers in no time.

 

 The process is reminiscent of Beauty and the Beast, except the other way around. You plant the bulbs – ugly brown “onions” – and wait! You water periodically, stare at them occasionally, and wonder if anything’s going to happen. Then you wake up one morning and notice a tip of green white at the top of the bulb. After that there’s no stopping them! Nothing is quite so spectacular as seeing your winter bulbs bloom. It’s one of those moments when you know you’ll never stop gardening – driven on by the desire to see more of these miracles.

Amaryllis and Paperwhites are the very easiest of things to coax into bloom. There really is nothing to it. Pick your container, pick your growing medium, keep the water constant and place in the sun. If you’ve chosen a transparent container you get two pleasures for the price of one because you can also see the roots grow.

 

If you want instant blooms, or maybe you need a quick gift, you can purchase bulbs already planted by the garden center.

 

CHOOSING THE FLOWERS
The choice really comes down to what you like: Amaryllis – bold and buxom or Paperwhites – sweet and petite. But why settle for just one when you can have both. There are more choices of Amaryllis but there are also different Paperwhites to choose from although many garden centers don’t carry more than one or two. Just be sure to select healthy bulbs – they should not be too dry or wet. If dry they may be lifeless. If wet they could be rotting. Examine each bulb. Some will already have shoots some may not – this is not an indication of their health but rather how far along they are in growth.

 

Amaryllis
Most Amaryllis are in the red, orange, white, pink or apricot range; some are multi-colored or striped and all have wonderful names like: Naughty Lady, Clown, Ludwig Dazzler…  

— Large Amaryllis grow to about 22-24” in height and produce 2-3 stems with 4-6 flowers on each stem.

— Double Amaryllis are the same height as the Large but they produce double flowers so 4-6 flowers actually looks like 8-12 flowers.

— Dwarf Amaryllis reach about 12-16” in height and can produce up to 18 flowers from one bulb, although the flowers are smaller.

 

Paperwhite Narcissus
Paperwhite Narcissus are usually white but you can also find yellow ones which isn’t surprising since the Narcissus family is the family of daffodils and jonquils.

 

The differences, apart from color, is in the height range: 12” to 16” and the number of flower stems per bulb: 1-3. All have pretty star-shaped or trumpet-shaped white flowers with a sweet fragrance.  

 

If you are not able to plant the bulbs immediately after bringing them home, or if they are not showing any shoots, put them somewhere cool and dark (40-50°F) until they have sprouted – maybe a week at most. When you want to plant them soak the root area for a couple of hours to soften up the roots.

 

PLANTING
The container. Choose any kind of container – shallow glass or ceramic bowl, tall clear glass flower vase, a wine glass, terracotta pot, tin can – you name it you can use it which is part of the fun. The potting medium is the same for both – either an attractive gravel, pretty stones or pebbles used alone, or a good potting soil moistened – not both together. If you use soil it should be moist not soggy then plant the bulbs as you would any other potted plant.

Planting. Plant the bulbs to about two-thirds their depth in either growing medium leaving the top third exposed. Be careful how many Amaryllis you put in one container only because of weight considerations – they can be heavy when full grown. But if your pot is big and heavy enough then put in as many as will fit – they don’t mind being crowded. The same is true for Paperwhites. You can put one on its own, or grouped. If potted in soil a little spaghnum moss over the top hides the soil and gives the container an attractive finished look.

 

Adding water. If in gravel, stones or pebbles add water to half the bulbs depth – do not submerge them. If planting in soil just keep it moist. Then simply put the container in the sun – a sunny windowsill works very well. They like a temperature of 60-70°F

 

CARE
There is no care involved. Just keep the containers watered and in the sun. . Resist the temptation to overwater. Keep the bulbs moist not wet or they will rot. You can snip off dead blossoms and if you’re lucky maybe fresh blooms will come.

AFTER-CARE
Amaryllis

 

When the plant has stopped flowering cut the flower off and when the stem gets soft cut it back to the bulb.  Water it and fertilize through the summer and it will start to grow again in the fall. You won’t get a bloom at this time so when the leaves turn yellow cut the plant back to the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil. Clean the dirt off handling the roots gently. Place in a cool, dark place (40-50°F) for not less than 6 weeks. Then go through the same process as above to force blooms.

Paperwhite Narcissus

 

When the flowers start to shrivel and become papery cut them off. Wait until the stems start to become yellow and soft and cut them back to the base. Do not cut the leaves off. Continue to keep the container watered and in the sun. You can then plant your Paperwhites outside. You can cut the leaves off at this point. It may take 2-3 years before you see blooms, but you will.

 

A Choice Selection of Indoor Winter Bulbs

Amaryllis:
Large Amaryllis Minerva – orangey red with white center

Appleblossom – blush pink with white

Clown – broad red stripes on white

Double Amaryllis Ragtime – bright orange red

Lady Jane – salmon rose with white

Rainbow – white with strong pink markings

Dwarf Amaryllis Misty – mauve tipped with white

Girafe – red markings on white

Green Goddess – white with green center

 

Paperwhite Narcissus:
Ziva strong fragrance, 15”-16” height, 1-2 stems per bulb

Ariel strong fragrance, 14”-15” height, 2-3 stems per bulb

Inball lighter fragrance, 12”-13” height, 2 stems per bulb